How to Design and 3. D Print Your Very Own Quadcopter !!: 5 Steps (with Pictures)Don't worry ! You can get all the parts from online stores like Banggood, e. Bay, Hobbyking, Aliexpress, Gearbest and other Drone shops. Here are the parts you'll need: - 4 motors - Prices start at $7 per motor - Use brushless motors, size will depend of your drone, my drone is a 1. I use 1. 30. 6 - 3. The first two number (1. The KV indicate how fast the motor will spin, it is usually higher on smaller motors. Please vote for me in the Hands-On Learning Contest, thanks! If you're somebody who likes to take film photographs, you know the satisfaction you get from a film. ![]()
![]() The lower KV the greater torque, the higher KV the greater RPM top speed. Link to some motors examples. ESC - Starts at $5 per ESC - The Electronic Speed Controller will control the speed of the motors, you'll want to choose ESCs according to your motors specifications. A ESC (the as the Favourite littlebee), smallers motors (1. A or 1. 2A ESCs. They are 2 main firmwares for multirotor ESCs : Simon. K and BL Heli. I prefer BL Heli because they are easier to program. On this drone, I used Multistar 1. A BL Heli ESCs I got from Hobbyking. But on bigger drones with 2. ESCs are the Little. Bee 2. 0A. Link to some ESCs.- Flight Controller - Starts at $1. The brain of your drone. For a 3. D printed drone, or FPV racing drone, I recommend using either Naze. CC3. D flight controllers. I personnaly prefer Naze. Naze. 32 also allows you to program the ESCs if directly through the flight controller which is very usefull. The software to use with Naze. Clean. Flight, Base. Flight or Beta. Flight (all free) and CC3. D will use Open. Pilot (free too). I chose a Naze 3. Rev 6 flight controller I got for $1. Banggood. Link to some FC. Power Distribution Board or BEC - starts at $3 - A power distribution is actually not mandatory, but is recommended for a clean setup, it will distribute power from battery to the ESCs, flight controller, camera, VTX etc.. PDBs have BEC integrated which means they'll have a 5v output somewhere to power up the Flight controller. Note that your ESC might have integrated BECs to power up the flight controller, but most of the performance ESC are OPTO which means they don't have BECs. If you have OPTO escs and decide not to use a PDB. You'll need a 5. V BEC to power up the flight controller. Link to some PDBs.- A Radio & receiver - Starting at $5. This might be the more expensive part, although you might already have you if you're an RC enthusiast. Make sure that your radio have at least 6 channel and a PPM / CPPM receiver, which is much more convenient than standard PWM receivers. I use a Fly. Sky Fs i. B receiver, the package cost around $5. I actually prefer it to some very expensive Taranis I have too. Fly. Sky FS i. 6 radio + receiver- Battery Cable & connector - $2 - To be connected to your PDB, the most common connector for baterry is a XT6. For the cable, choose a cable that is not to thin and will easily handle twice or more the max voltage of your battery. A camera & Video transmitter(optional) - Starting at $1. VTX) - If you want to fly in FPV, then you'll need a camera and 5. Ghz VTX. There are a lot of different cameras, CMOS, CCD, 6. TVL etc.. the choice will be up to you. There are also a lot of different size. Since my drone is very small (1. I used a micro 6. Tvl camera that cost around $1. For the VTX, the best one in my opinion in the Skyzone 2. VTX, it cost $1. 2 and works really great, it is also pretty small. Note that camera/vtx combo also exist for around 3. Don't forget the antennas if you got with a FPV drone, you'll also need some FPV googles or monitor and a receiver of course. You can have very descent quality googles + receiver for $7. Link to some cameras examples.- Propellers - starting at $2 for 4 props - For strengh issue, it is better not to print the propellers, altough ABS printed propeller would work just fine. Grab propellers according to the size of your quadcopter. My favorite propellers and the one I use are the DAL prop, either the DAL bullnose or DAL V2 props, both 2 blades and 3 blades version. They are almost unbreakable and will hold a ton of thrust. Link to some Props.- Hardware - $1 - In order to mount the Flight Controller and Power distribution board (if you have one) to your frame, Plastic M3 screws & nuts can be very handful. They are better than metal ones because they won't create any short circuit on the electronics. A full box of more than 1. M3 screws and nuts can be purchased for $5 on ebay. Installation & wiring (Picture 1) Once you got all the components needed, you just have to put everything together ! This wiring diagram will help you to see how you should connect everything together but I will also describe the connection in bullet points : - Battery wire to PDB battery input - Motors wire to ESC: there are 3 motors wire to be connected on the ESC, how you connect the wires does not matter, it will only affect the rotation sens of the motor, but this can be change when programming the ESC if you have a BL Heli boot- loaded Esc- 4 ESC positive to PDB (or battery, although not recommended) positive and 4 ESC negative to PDB negative. ESC signal to Flight controler motor output 1 2 3 4 signal. The order of the motors will depend of your flight controller, a motor number diagram will be available on the software of your FC (Openpilot, Cleanflight etc..) - PDB 5. V output to Flight controller, the 5. V input on the FC is actually on the motor output (6 of them) pins. So just choose a pin to connect the 5. V input. - Flight controller, Positive (5v), negative and PPM (Ch 1) Signal to Receiver. PDB 5. V output to your camera - PDB 1. V or more (depending on your VTX) output to your VTX. Camera Signal to your VTX Thats it ! Recommendation: do as much direct soldering as possible, that is to say avoid unnecessary connectors, they will be a potential point of failure and take up a lot of space especially on smaller frames. Dead: Mitsubishi i- Mi. EVUnlike some other hatchbacks that will be departing the US market, I don’t predict anyone pouring one out for the Mitsubishi i- Mi. EV. The automaker announced will discontinue the electric vehicle due to slow sales. The next- generation Ford Fiesta may not be coming to the United States because you didn’t buy…Read more Green Car Reports got an official statement from Erica Rasch at Mitsubishi Motors North America who confirmed that “2. Mi. EV, and all available retail units have been sold.”According to Green Car Reports, the i- Mi. EV was technically the first mass- market electric car. Mitsubishi was testing fleets of them in Japan in 2. Tesla launched its roadster and the i- Mi. EV was on sale before the Nissan Leaf hit showrooms in 2. Despite its place in history, there weren’t too many positive qualities about the i- Mi. EV. It looked like an insect mated with a golf cart and had about the same amount of range. The i- Mi. EV would run out of juice in about 6. With the electric motors pumping out the equivalent of about 6. Mi. EV was also one of the slowest accelerating cars on the market doing the casual jaunt to 6. At the time, the i- Mi. EV was also the cheapest EV you could buy with a starting price of just under $3. Mitsubishi will now focus its electric vehicle efforts on the Outlander Plug- In hybrid, which is the only crossover in its segment that offers a plug- in option, though no one seems to notice.
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